¿Por qué quieres surfear?

Por
Lubliano
-

Si le preguntas a un amigo, vecino o a cualquier persona que surfea, por qué decidió practicar este deporte, muy probablemente te dé una respuesta muy personal. Algunos toman el surf como un pasatiempo donde se disfrutan las olas, mientras que otros se introducen en el estilo de vida del surfista que incluye vivir y respirar la playa en la búsqueda de la ola perfecta, ser minimalista, humilde, colaborador con los demás, y sobretodo tener un alto grado de  sensibilidad con el medio ambiente.

Todas las formas de definir el surf son válidas y ninguna representa fielmente lo que es para ti, para un surfista o para los que desaprueben este deporte. Existen muchos conceptos subjetivos, pero lo importante es el significado que le das tú.

Algo que muchas personas admiran en los surfistas es su filosofía; su manera de entender la vida, su relación única con el mar y la naturaleza. En muchas maneras, el practicar surf es visto como un ritual, y hay mucha espiritualidad adherida en la visión personal de los que lo practican, porque es una visión muy distinta de la común.

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El estilo de vida de un surfista no se trata de cómo hablar o de usar ropa playera las 24 horas del día; se trata de la actitud. Claro que podrías pasear por la playa con el pelo desgreñado, con una tabla de surf bajo el brazo, y serás referido como un surfista. Pero te cuento: verte así no quiere decir que estés viviendo la vida como un verdadero surfista.

Para un surfista, esto es más que un deporte. El surf representa el amor al mar,  a la naturaleza, a la libertad, a lo básico; a lo esencial en la vida….En cierto punto, es una rebelión contra los modelos tradicionales de la sociedad. Un surfista es un soñador, cuyo propósito es  la búsqueda de la «ola perfecta»; una búsqueda que puede durar toda la vida. Ahí tenemos una analogía perfecta, porque esta búsqueda se convierte en parte de la vida diaria, y simboliza “la felicidad” ante los ojos del que practica este deporte.

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